Scout’s age
15 months
Most important gear
For sure the baby carrier - perfect for the hills of Lisbon. A stroller would have been nearly impossible!
Trip story
Best. Baby. Vacation. Ever.
Portugal. A place that had never crossed my mind. Relatively obscure sitting next to Europe's powerhouses, Spain and France, it is easy to miss.
But that short border it shares with Spain is the oldest in Europe, making Portugal the oldest nation-state. And with age, I've learned, comes respect. And that is exactly what Portugal demands.
Almost Immediately, Portugal grabbed my attention. The sidewalks patterned in black and white limestones. Buildings spilled down the hillsides in pinks, yellows, and blues. Graffiti splashed along the alleyways forcing your pace to slow to a stroll.
I knew I had to come home and sound the explorer's bell and let everyone know...
So let's start at the beginning. The flight. This was Scout's longest flight yet and I was going to attack it head on. Here's a list of what I brought that helped:
Sticker Book So. Many. Stickers. They turned out to be great throughout the trip!
Inflatable Foot Rest We used this to turn her seat into a bed
Headphones for Baby Super comfy and has a max volume control...also, wayyyy cute!
Were the flights without incident? Hell no. Was it totally, 100,000% worth it. Yes, yes, yes!
One major draw to Portugal is the people. We met a steady stream of nice, helpful people who were excited to tell us about their country. Although I can't find proof via Google, Portugal seemed to have a "law" that let any person(s) with a baby cut ANY line. A N Y L I N E. It was awesome. Oh! This line to the convent is a mile long, no way Scout can stand in that! Oh, what's that, man who patrols the line looking exclusively for babies? I get to WALK DIRECTLY IN, RIGHT NOW? ok.
And there was another time that it was just me and Scout (on my back in the Tula baby carrier) at a market on the square. While waiting in line at the deli, I felt Scout sneeze a pretty meaty sneeze right on my back. I couldn't reach and thought 'Oh well...I'll get that later.' But to the older woman in line next to me that was unacceptable. She pulled out a kleenex and, with a smile no less, she wiped my baby's disgusting snotty nose. Wow.
I genuinely want to help every single person make it to Portugal. So, here's a simple run down on the places we stayed, tours we took and things we loved.
Our AirBnb was worth the trip to Lisbon alone. One of, if not the, best Airbnbs I've stayed in ever. Here's their link : Beautiful Apartment on a Square with a Playroom and View of a FREAKIN CASTLE
Bike My Side - side car tour...as seen on Somebody Feed Phil (my favorite Netflix show)
We booked this tour through my friend/client Lauren with Authentic Travel - she specializes in traveling with food restrictions but she's definitely not limited to that! I love working with her because she is a traveler too and gets what you want in an experience!
Fado - A style of traditional singing. You will see people in cafes and bars all over the city singing the melancholy songs. My mother-in-law and I scored seats at Parreirinha de Alfama which, according to our new local friend that owned the cutest tchotchke shop in Alfama, is the BEST. And it was great!
Lisbon By Boat - another treat from Authentic Travel. I recommend seeing the city from the water and they offer a sunset wine sailboat cruise. DO IT. Just do it.
Oceanario - When traveling with a kid, the best way to make it easy is to make it about the kid. Do kid stuff. It's fun! And this aquarium is tops! It's built out on the water and is beautifully made.
LX Factory - an area that's very authentic and locals only. It used to be a series of warehouses under the 25 de Abril bridge, however, local artists and artisans have taken over. The graffiti is on par with most galleries and the restaurants were innovative and unique.
Carmo Convent - a convent that was ruined in the 1755 earthquake (which ruined most parts of the city) Very cool and a quick sight.
Belem Tower - an obligatory gotta see. We didn't bother going in...we just grabbed some beers and snack an sat under a tree in the park surrounding it an listened to the waves crash and the people play.
Time Out - Do you stress about trying to pack in all of the best restaurants a town has to offer in to one trip? Fret not! Time Out is a collection of the best of the best in one space. Walk around the food hall and try all the things! I recommend the pasteis de nata and the cured ham board.
We decided to take a road trip for the day to beautiful Évora. We rented a car from the airport which was only a quick train ride away. We also rented a car seat. The seat was more or less like any American seat and simple to figure out. Other than that seat, we did not travel with a car seat. Scout sat in our laps in the back of cabs and had her own seat on trains.
Jardim Público - We grabbed some sandwiches at a cafe and had lunch in this beautiful park. There are gardens, peacocks, roman ruins and a playground
Bone Chapel - This was the reason for our road trip! A chapel made of bones. Be sure to check out the script above the door that translates to: We bones, are here, waiting for yours"
Roman Ruins - These are right in the middle of this small, beautiful town. You'd have to try to not run into it.
Sintra is an absolute must! Only a 45 minute train ride from Lisbon, Sintra is like stepping into a fairytale. Moss and ferns cover steep hillsides. Small roads scroll up to a palace of many colors. Sintra is the last stop on the train ride from Lisbon. Once off, you will find tuk-tuks for hire. Since we had a baby, we opted for Uber which was very available and cheap. First stop, Pena Palace.
Palácio Nacional de Pena - Painted red, blue, yellow and covered in decorative tile, this palace that sits in the clouds is like being in a dream. The views alone are worth it.
Quinta de Regleira - THIS. This was #1 on my have-to-see list! And I was not disappointed. The best way to describe it is a non-sensical and magical secret garden. There are secret caves and grottos and an inverted tower that drops into the ground. Beautiful doesn't begin to describe it!
I hope I have inspired you to give Portugal a chance! And I hope I've helped to encourage those with children to get out and explore.